The first R rated movie I ever saw was Easy Rider. This took place at a drive-in theater in Florida with my girlfriend - the distinct pungency of pot filled the night air. Easy Rider was life changing for me, although the changes didn't come for quite some time.  A paperback book/screenplay of the movie was published in 1969, the same year the film was released.  

​In the "Introduction To Easy Rider" at the beginning of book, Frederic Tuten says - "In Easy Rider the bikes are incidental, they might as well be horses . . . "  

That might be true.  But to me, those bikes were the coolest thing I had ever seen.  I of course went right out and bought the paperback book/screenplay, probably at the same bookstore where I had found Hunter Thompson's "Hells Angels, A Strange and Terrible Saga" a few years earlier. I showed it to my best friend on the night of our Senior Prom (I don't think our dates appreciated the distraction).  

​I read him the part towards the end where George and Billy are arguing about freedom. George tells Billy - "I mean, it's real hard to be free when you are bought and sold in the marketplace.  'Course don't ever tell anybody that they're not free, cause then they're gonna get real busy killin' and maimin' to prove to you that they are.  Oh, yeah - they're gonna talk to you about individual freedom.  But they see a free individual, it's gonna scare 'em."  When Billy responds that it doesn't make them "runnin' scared."   George replies - "No, it makes 'em dangerous . . . "

The Pine Breeze Inn was/is on old Route 66 in Bellemont, Arizona just outside of Flagstaff. This short stretch of Route 66 is easily accessible by bike and car, but the road ends just a few feet from the old Inn. This exact location is featured at the beginning of Easy Rider.  It's Wyatt's and Billy's first night on the road, so they pull in on their choppers to get a room for the night.  The proprietor comes to the door, takes one look, slams the door and turns on the neon "No Vacancy" sign.  Billy flips him off as they ride off into the night.  Then like real bikers, they end up camping and singing around the campfire - "I'm goin' down to Mardi Gras; I'm gonna get me a Mardi Gras queen . . . "

I couldn't tell if the original building is still in use, although I could see some scattered furnishings through the window.  And a cool Easy Rider movie poster is taped to the inside glass of the front door.  There's a small RV park behind the building, presumably where the cabins used to be that made up the Inn.  Almost 50 years later, it was really cool to ride to the Pine Breeze Inn using the route from LA that Wyatt and Billy would have taken.  And to reflect on the impact that film eventually had on my life.

You can barely make out the words "Pine Breeze Inn" on this side of the building.

​No biker deserves to be bored . . . 

When I learned to ride six years ago, the instructor in my Rider's Edge class asked us to write down 5 or 6 goals we wanted to achieve after the class. These could be short term or long term goals.  The last goal I wrote down was "Ride Route 66."  Or at least what's left of it.  I finally achieved that goal a couple of weeks ago with my wife and 10 other bikes from our HOG chapter (Simi Valley, CA).  The early sixties TV show by the same name was my first awareness of the "Mother Road." And also my introduction to Corvettes.  I've never owned a Corvette, but I can now say I've ridden a good portion of Arizona Route 66 on a Harley Davidson motorcycle.  

In his book "Ghost Towns Of Route 66," Jim Hinckley says it this way:  "The old highway is more than a 2,291 mile (according to a 1936 map) ribbon of asphalt line with dusty remnants, ghostly vestiges, and polished gems manifesting more than eighty years of American societal evolution.  To drive Route 66 is to follow the path of a new nation on its journey of westward expansion."  As I rode along the mostly deserted highway, I thought about all the people who got in their cars in Chicago and made their way to Santa Monica.  Especially the families taking the obligatory summer "road trip," which probably took around three weeks (both ways including a week at Disneyland).  The peak of such unhurried vacations would have been the late 1940's and most of the 1950's.  Post-war prosperity had put roomy station wagons in garages and money in people's pockets.  What better way to put both to good use than to pile the family in the Ford Country Squire and head West.  

But as I rode along, I also thought about how different travel was back then.  Much of Route 66 in Texas, New Mexico, Arizona and California goes through a very desolate and hot part of our country.  Cars were not air conditioned.  Cell phones were still 40 years away.  Credit cards were nonexistent. The 2,300 mile journey took a week of driving in sweltering air with cranky kids in the back seat asking "are we there yet?"  I'm not sure how those people did it.    

The construction of Interstate 40 bypassed most of the towns along Route 66 that depended on these midwestern folks to buy gasoline and souvenirs. One of those towns that seems to have survived is Williams, Arizona.

​If you want to know what Route 66 was like in 1955, go to Williams.  It was the last town to be bypassed by I-40 (construction of I-40 began in 1957 was completed at Williams in 1984).  Besides lots of Route 66 nostalgia around, Williams prides itself on being the gateway to the Grand Canyon. The Grand Canyon railway takes visitors there every morning.  Our group spent the night at a very cool motel called The Lodge On Route 66.  The property was a condemned vintage motor court when the current owner bought and renovated it. Guests can still park in front of their rooms in the classic motor-court tradition (which is exactly what we did!). There was even a vintage car show in town for the weekend which added an extra touch of nostalgia, not that Williams needs it.

One more thing . . . a must stop along this stretch of Route 66 is the Hackberry General Store in Kingman. This little spot may epitomize the Route 66 culture more than any other.  Or at least it has one of best selections of cheesy double six souvenirs that we ran across.  If you're on a bike, be careful. The parking lot is all gravel and very slippery. 




Perhaps telling you about the coolest stop we made on Route 66 should be reserved for its very own post.  Here's a hint . . . "Hey, you got a room?"  Proprietor turns and exits back into office.  ​"Hey, man!  you gotta room?"  Another neon light goes on over the first "Vacancy" sign - it reads:  "NO" Wyatt exits as he backs the cycle.  Billy gives "the finger."

No biker deserves to be bored . . . 
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